jeff12399 Global Moderator Certified Breeder CP Master Hobbiest BAPs=95
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Joined: Sept 2008 Gender: Male Posts: 252 Karma: 49
Re: HAPPY BIRTHDAY THREAD « Result #1 on Oct 28, 2009, 5:02pm »
Thanks Guys, it will be a quiet night at home with my son and my fish. It was a bad day at work but a great night at home to relax. At 53 i need more rest. I will be sending some pictures soon of my planted 90 and some new fish. Just working out living arrangements for all of them. I might have to move my stuff out to make room for more tanks. Thanks for the birthday wishes and I will try to get on here more.
Joined: Oct 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 16 Location: Marengo Illinois Karma: 0
Re: Algae bloom « Result #6 on Oct 16, 2009, 3:04pm »
Brown alge is a diatom and plecos don't generally eat these. Turning off the lights for a while and keeping up on water changes will solve your problem.
Joined: Oct 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 16 Location: Marengo Illinois Karma: 0
Re: URGANT !! nuchal hump infection or HITH ? « Result #7 on Oct 16, 2009, 2:51pm »
Well it's definitly not HITH. Problem looks more like a cyst. Raising the temp on this will probably not do anything except stress the front out more as the can be temp sensitive. It could be lymphocystis but it's really difficult to know without sending in a culture to a lab. I would level out the temp to 75-78*, salt and depending on the current diet would look in to a more balanced food.
Joined: Oct 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 16 Location: Marengo Illinois Karma: 0
ICH and how to deal with it « Result #8 on Oct 15, 2009, 8:56pm »
Organism: Ichthyophthirius multifilis
Names: Ich, White Spot
Description: Ichthyophthirius multifilis, ich for short, is a parasitic organism that feeds on the blood and epithelial cells of its host. Although the disease is the equivalent of a skin infection, it can easily be fatal to a fish stressed by poor diet, water conditions or aggression.
Symptoms:
1. Small white spots resembling sand or salt.
2. Fish is flashing (rubbing against rocks, gravel or tank).
Infected fish are covered to various degrees with small white spots. Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed. However, Ich won't remain unnoticed for long. Like a bad penny, it will be back with a vengeance if not treated properly. The adult parasite burrows into the skin of its victim, feeding on blood and dead epithelial cells. The irritation caused by the burrowing parasite causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts seen as a small spots. It's not unusual to see infected fish flashing against rocks and gravel in an effort to get relief.
After several days of feasting, the engorged parasite develops into a trophozoite, burrows out of the fish and sinks bottom of the tank. Secreting a soft jellylike substance, it forms a protective membrane inside of which it divides into hundreds of baby parasites, known as tomites. The hungry tomites soon leave their home in search of a fresh fish to dine upon.
It is during the free-swimming stage that the parasite is vulnerable to treatment. Once it has burrowed into a new host fish it is safely protected from chemicals in the water.
Treatment:
1. Raise water temperature to between 82 and 85 degrees F
2. Increase aeration and surface movement. This will help with oxygenation and gas exchange.
3. Salt for 10-14 days. 1 Heaping tablespoon per 5 gallons of water
4. Perform water changes between treatments
The entire cycle can take up to 2 weeks. I like to go a little longer just to make sure that the infestation has been dealt with. Higher temps shorten the cycle between adult and free swimming tomites. Therefore, raising the water temp shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication/salt.
When raising the temp of the water do so slowly. Raising the temps to quickly can easily shock your fish and kill them. It can also starve them of oxygen so have your aerator ready.
Treatments must be given for a long enough period to assure that all parasites are gone. Watch carefully for other infections, as secondary infections often occur where the skin has been damaged by the parasite. The salt will also help with this, as it is a natural healer. Although nothing kills the parasite once it has checked into it's fish "hotel", several chemicals kill ich once it has left the fish. Malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride are all effective, and are available under several brand names. Be careful though as all of these chemicals can be hazardous to you and your fish. Especially scaleless fish like plecos and catfish. This is one of the main reasons I don’t like to medicate. Salt is just as good as any of those meds and is far less harmful to you and your fish.
Regardless of the treatment used, it should be given continuously for 10-14 days to ensure all parasites are killed. Between treatments a partial water change is recommended. Keep water temperatures higher than usual to speed up the life cycle of the parasite. Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment if you are using one of the medications, as it will remove the chemicals. There is no need to pull carbon if you are using salt. Personally I don’t use carbon unless I am trying to remove chemicals or smells from the water.
Prevention of Ich:
1.Quarantine new fish for two weeks in a separate tank.
2. Treat plants before adding to tank.
3. Keep your Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates under control.
4. Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
The best way to avoid Ich is to quarantine all new fish in a separate tank for two weeks before moving them to the regular tank. When quarantine is not possible, a prophylactic treatment may be used. Either methylene blue or malachite green given when new fish are introduced and again four days later will help reduce incidence of infection. New plants should also be treated, as they can carry ich cysts. Maintaining high water quality, avoiding temperature fluctuations, and providing a robust diet is the best preventative for ich and other diseases. Remember stress is a major cause of ich, as the fish’s natural defenses to the parasite and other diseases have been compromised when they are stressed.
This is by no means the end all be all to getting rid of ich but it has helped me keep my tanks ich free for a long time.
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Joined: Jul 2007 Gender: Male Posts: 771 Location: NE Florida Karma: 67
Re: INTRODUCTION THREAD New Members Please Post He « Result #10 on Oct 15, 2009, 6:28am »
Welcome Shawn nice to have you on board CP hope you like it here we're still working on getting more active members. I went ahead and changed your title to breeder since you are a breeder.
Jeff if you would send him the password to the Breeder forum I would greatly appreciate it I am working a double today and need to ready to leave now. Thank you in advance
Joined: Oct 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 16 Location: Marengo Illinois Karma: 0
Re: INTRODUCTION THREAD New Members Please Post He « Result #12 on Oct 14, 2009, 6:29am »
Jeff,
I will definitely have a table. Not sure where I will be though. If you ask any of the staff working where I am they will point you in the proper direction.
jeff12399 Global Moderator Certified Breeder CP Master Hobbiest BAPs=95
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Joined: Sept 2008 Gender: Male Posts: 252 Karma: 49
Re: INTRODUCTION THREAD New Members Please Post He « Result #13 on Oct 14, 2009, 4:32am »
Hey Shawn Welcome, We need to get together to see what each other has for fish. I am in Oshkosh Wisconsin and plan on attending the GCCA Swap meet on the 25th. I am in the GBAS Club (Green Bay Aquarium Society). Our fall auction is this Sat. If you get the chance you should come on up. It is always fun and I spend way to much money. Just like I did at the Milwaukee auction this past weekend. Let me know where you will be at the GCCA swap and I will try to find you.
johnny:male zebra cichlid jackie:male jack dempsy cichlid athena:female jack dempsy cichlid red devil cichlid:hades Oreant Bichir: Levi all in a 90 gallon
Joined: Oct 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 16 Location: Marengo Illinois Karma: 0
Re: INTRODUCTION THREAD New Members Please Post He « Result #16 on Oct 13, 2009, 6:06pm »
Hi,
My name is Shawn and I go by DragonKeeper on numerous other forums. I have 14 tanks (soon to be 16) 2 of which are show tanks. I have a 55 gal peacock/hap tank and a 125 Tanganyikan community tank. The rest are breeding and growout.
I have been keeping cichlids for about 2.5 years now. I mostly keep Old World cichlids and currently have both Malawian and Tanganyikan fish breeding. It all started with a 55gal that my now wife gave to me. I am an active member of the GCCA (Greater Chicago Cichlid Association) and hail from Marengo Illinois.
Along with keeping these wonderful fish and helping out with the GCCA I also am a forum admin on the GCCA forum and Aquatic-Terrors. I hope to share some of my knowledge and also learn from the many people here.
jeff12399 Global Moderator Certified Breeder CP Master Hobbiest BAPs=95
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Joined: Sept 2008 Gender: Male Posts: 252 Karma: 49
Re: Malawi Bloat « Result #20 on Sept 20, 2009, 12:20am »
My newest update on the Male Dolphin. Although I never had a fish before with Malawi Bloat. I wasn't sure how to treat it. Now I am almost (99%) sure that the parisite clear may have helped a little but when i put him back in the tank he still looked like Death warmed over. After a few more water changes and lots of salt the male has bred with both females that are now holding. This is a first for both of them together and a first spawn for one of the females. Now I will wait to see if the eggs will hatch and if the fry will turn out ok. It's ok because I know Kris has some of my stock and if his breed i will buy some back from him. (LOL) I still have some 2" Juvies that I will be keeping that have better color than the parents.
Jeff
How are yours doing Kris & Amy?
« Last Edit: Sept 20, 2009, 12:21am by jeff12399 »
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